E30 Fuel Pump Scoped
My problem started when I heard a whining noise just in front of the left rear tire after driving for a few minutes. I believed it was the fuel pump and changed it along with the fuel filter and most of the fuel lines as they were all cracked and hard. The problem was still there. After about five minutes of driving the pump would whine. A Dutch mechanic told me it was a bad pump and I returned it and installed another new one. I had the mechanic set the timing and fuel ratio. The car ran fine then. Well then everything went wrong and to keep it short I found a bad coil wire and fixed that. I also ran the fuel down low and filled up with premium gas. Now the car starts and goes 1/4 mile then jerks and sputters until it is warm. The whining comes and goes. I have had to leave it parked. The car is not worth much and I only need it for one year. I am curious as to if the fuel regulator would cause the fuel pump to whine?
Donald Hulett
via the Internet
It's not the fuel pressure regulator. I suspect what you are hearing is fuel cavitation caused by failure of the auxiliary or "helper" fuel pump located on the sending unit inside the fuel tank. Diagnosis is simple. Remove the rear seat bottom and remove the fuel sending unit access hatch. You will see the top of the sending unit assembly, with a wiring harness and two fuel hoses. Run the engine, and use a mechanic's stethoscope to listen for the auxiliary fuel pump. You can also remove it for bench testing, but sometimes they work fine until they are immersed in fuel. The fuel resistance is just enough to stop the pump because the mechanism is worn out. Also clean the fuel pickup screen at the bottom of the sending unit.
You should also replace the fuel filter any time you replace the fuel pump. I suspect you've got a tankful of dirt. Inspect the fuel tank contents while the sending unit assembly is out, using a flashlight (not a cigarette lighter).
You should have a new O-ring seal ready for the sending unit assembly before removing it. It's also possible that the drivability problem is completely separate from the noise you are hearing.
E30 Tach-no-meter
The other day the tachometer and vacuum gauge in my 1987 325i quit working. Do you have any ideas of what the problem might be?
Dave
Seattle
It could be the instrument itself, but I think the problem is more likely the instrument cluster motherboard. I recommend removing the instrument cluster so the motherboard can be inspected for any obvious problems like scorch marks or melted parts. Replacement motherboards are available from BMW. The instrument itself can be refurbished by www.nhspeedometer.com.
Google!
I need to know where I can get an M3 engine to swap with my engine. Also, where can I find and good gearbox to swap from automatic to manual.Dre
via the Internet
Go to www.google.com and search "BMW dismantler." Also check out www.bimmerssouth.com and www.zionsvilleautosport.com.
Replacement Battery Choices
I have a European-specification 1988 320i, and was wondering what type of battery would be available here in the United States. The vehicle is not listed in the parts catalog as having been imported in 1988.
Ralph
via the Internet
Replacement original BMW batteries, which are very expensive, do not seem to live long. It's not uncommon to hear of failures after only two or three years. For this reason, when it's time to replace an original BMW battery, we'd rather turn to an aftermarket alternative for cost savings and/or greater durability.
The problem is that modern BMWs must have vented batteries due to their mounting locations, usually in the trunk or under the back seat. Vented batteries have a provision for a vent tube, which leads outside the car and functions to vent potentially explosive gases from the battery compartment. Failure to install a properly vented battery in these cars can result in a battery explosion. Underhood battery mounting locations do not require a vented battery. For aftermarket replacement BMW batteries, we've always preferred Interstate Batteries (www.interstatebatteries.com), usually the Interstate MTP-91 for most contemporary BMWs. The MTP-91 has a provision for the battery vent.In the case of this car, I would recommend an Interstate MTP-91 battery. If it is mounted under the hood, then there is no need to employ the vent feature.
Automatics Suck; Manuals are Cool
I just bought a used 1992 525i BMW, my third BMW. The car drives very well on the highway, it's clean inside and out, and well maintained, but when I'm on local roads, using lesser gears, it does not kick into the next gear smoothly. It drags and eventually it will kick in. Today on my way to work, TRANSMISSION PROGRAM appeared in the multi-information display and that gave me a lot of concern. Do you think I've been sold a lemon or do you think is can be fixed with no major problem?
Kafayat Danmole
via the Internet
It depends upon your definition of "major problem", Kafayat. It is possible there is an electronic problem with the transmission, or that it is low on automatic transmission fluid (ATF), or that an ATF and filter change may cure things or at least ameliorate the problem. However, if I had to guess, I'd say you've simply got a worn out transmission there, which will need to be replaced.We tend to see BMW automatic transmission failures between 80,000 and 120,000 miles. BMW manual gearboxes are far more durable, given appropriate oil changes and using a high quality synthetic product.
I recommend you have this transmission diagnosed at a BMW dealership or an independent BMW shop with experience with automatic transmissions. At replacement time, I recommend only original BMW rebuilt automatic transmissions. If you are offered a choice between the "value line" transmission and a more expensive one, pick the "value line." There is no difference except for price.
Best Way to Improve Performance
I got the family 318i for my 16th birthday. I am 18 now and I was wondering what I could do in terms of performance. I am really clueless on this sort of thing but I have been fishing around on the Internet and, well, I haven't found much to help me with my specific car. Also, there doesn't seem to be many performance parts for BMWs in Corpus Christi, Texas.
I was wondering if an engine swap would be possible and if so what would it take. If not that then what else could I do? Any parts recommendations and tips would be most appreciated. Of course, I will be working on a limited budget but I would like to keep my car for a few more years.
Andreas
via the Internet
Want to know the absolute best way to increase the performance of any car? It's to increase the performance of the driver. My best advice to you is to join the BMW Car Club of America (www.bmwcca.org) and attend a local chapter driving school. In fact, attend about five of them before spending any money on performance upgrades. Short of supercharging (www.downingatlanta.com), there is not a great deal of performance to be squeezed from the M42 engine. Does this car have an automatic transmission? If so, I'd simply drive it until you can afford to replace it with something more sporting. For what you'd spend on setting up a 318i automatic with a 5-speed manual gearbox conversion and the 215-hp from supercharging, combined with the value of the car, plus the suspension mods required by the power, and you could almost buy a halfway decent used M3. Now, if you had something more sporting to begin with, like a 318ti or a Z3, our advice would be different.If the car is a five-speed manual, see if your budget will allow a Conforti chip and a Supersprint exhaust system. This should net you about 15-20 hp, which is not much but a significant difference on an engine so underpowered to begin with.
Dump that Slushbox
I was wondering what would be needed in a automatic transmission to manual gearbox swap in a 1997 Z3 1.9, how much it would cost, and where I can find the parts and service.
Dwan Dwans
via the Internet
Good idea. The car would probably love you forever, like removing a thorn from a lion's paw. You would need the gearbox, flywheel, clutch parts, pedal assembly parts, interior console parts, shifter assembly, driveshaft and the engine electronic control unit. The original could be reprogrammed, but then you would need to find a manual Z3 1.9 to bring to the dealer with the subject vehicle so it could "donate" its programming.
Some parts, such as the clutch parts, should be purchased new. Used parts can be purchased from any BMW dismantler. A good BMW dismantler would be able to sell you a package deal with everything you need. Check out www.bimmerssouth.com and www.zionsvilleautosport.com. Cost depends upon labor charges in your geographic location. I would estimate labor time to be approximately 20 hours.
You would need to find an experienced and well-equipped independent BMW shop to perform this swap. Dealerships would probably not be interested. To find a good independent, your best bet is to join the BMW Car Club of America (www.bmwcca.org) and consult the advertisements in your local chapter newsletter, attend chapter events and get word-of-mouth recommendations from the chapter technical representative and your fellow club members.
325Ci Tweaking
I'm looking to improve airflow on my car for better performance. I have a K&N air filter and a B&B performance exhaust. I've been informed that getting the Dinan air intake can't be done without the software so that's $800 for what, 10 horses? I hear that dropping the stock resonator is not as expensive and it gives some extra boost, but my question is do I replace it with an aftermarket unit or leave it resonator-less? I am not looking for a louder system at all; I don't care about a loud sound. What brand would you recommend for an aftermarket resonator, and what's your opinion about the catalytic converter?
Jordan Leitner
via the Internet
Short of supercharging, there are not great power gains to be had from this engine. BMW has optimized it that well. Forget about removing the resonator if you're not looking for a louder exhaust note. With the resonator, it will be incredibly loud. The catalytic converters cannot be removed without violating federal law.If you want to consider supercharging, I recommend you visit
www.activeautowerk.com.
Due to the difficulty in extracting signficant power increases without forced induction or other big money mods, contemporary 325i/Ci buyers need to flesh out the issue of whether they will be able to live with the power level of the 2.5-liter engine BEFORE deciding not shell out the additional money for a 330i/Ci. The 2.5-liter engine is perfectly fine for drivers who don't mind spooling up the engine to get what they want, but drivers addicted to low-end torque and beholden to 0-60 and stoplight-to-stoplight acceleration need the 3.0-liter engine.
Australian E21 320 needs help
I have a 1977 BMW 320 that cost only $2,000 Australian, and I want to know if there is anything much I can do to help it make more power. I really don't want to go the turbo/supercharged route, as I think that's sacrilege. One idea I did have was see if I could fit a later model engine (possibly a 6-cylinder M3), but I'm unsure if this is a viable option. Also, I'm wondering if 15- or even 16-inch wheels will fit it, without me having to modify the wheel arches or anything.
The current engine is a tired old 2.0-liter three-speed automatic (original) with no idea how many km on the clock--the odometer has stopped on 376,098km. The body is in excellent condition, with only one minor rust spot on the boot-lid (trunk for you lot), one on the driver's door (right-hand side), and one on the bonnet (hood). The only real problem with all this is I am a student, and so I don't have much cash, and no insurance agents want to cover me, as young drivers in European sports cars are apparently liabilities. If this M3 engine does indeed fit my vehicle's engine bay, would I be correct in assuming that I will have to put in a newer five- or six-speed gearbox?
J.M.
Darwin, Australia
I can't tell from your letter whether you have a four- or six-cylinder 320, as both were available in Australia, and both have 2.0-liter engines. There was also the 320i, which is a fuel-injected version of the 320. That affects my advice, but I'll try to wing it just the same.
First, the M3 engine conversion is possible, but forget it if you don't have much cash; you'd need quite a bit. It's not just the engine--you'll need the radiator, exhaust, electronics, gearbox, custom driveshaft, and a custom differential installation if you want to have a speedometer. And your speedometer would have to be reworked to electronics. Then you'd need rear disc brakes and a full suspension upgrade. By the time you were done, you could have an M3 engine with the M3 it came in wrapped around it. Besides, a 320 is a perfect car to learn how to drive. Driving, even fast driving, is 95% suspension and brakes and 5% engine.
Now, if you have a four-cylinder carbureted 320, you'll want to remove the existing carburetor and air intake system (especially that whole Australian-specification zyklon pre-separator--what was that all about?), and replace it with a Weber 32/36 downdraught carburetor and a K&N air filter. Remove the original distributor and replace it with a Bosch ID48X rebuild, which is a mechanical advance unit for a 1972 2002ti/tii-- the best one BMW had. Also buy a Bosch blue ignition coil. You'll now have about another 20 hp, which is a big gain in a 320.
If you have a four-cylinder fuel-injected 320i, get the same distributor and ignition coil, and set the percent CO to about 2.2. In either case, if you can score a set of exhaust headers for a RHD car, so much the better. Use an exhaust manifold gasket with integral heat shield for a 1984 318i (E30).If you have a six-cylinder carbureted 320, then the performance parts are pretty much non-existent. Tune it up and be happy. Both engines require valve adjustments and tune ups about every 20,000 km.
Put your money into the brakes and suspension. I'd recommend Ferodo brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, and H&R coil springs for the four-cylinder cars; there are no springs currently available for the six cylinder version. Or, at least not here. I'd also recommend a set of larger anti-roll bars such as Supsension Techniques offerings.The E21 3 Series BMW has a unique wheel offset so nothing but original 13-inch wheels will bolt right on and work correctly. However, small hub-centric spacers (5-8mm) can make E30 3 Series 14- or 15-inch wheels work. Your correct tire sizes are 185/70-13, 195/60-14, or 205/50-15. H&R makes 8mm spacers and longer lug bolts that will work. Now, regarding that K&N air cleaner if it is applicable, you need to understand the specialized maintenance required by an oiled cotton gauze filter. The element is oiled cotton gauze, not paper. When the filter is dirty, you or your technician will have to remove the filter, soak it with K&N Air Filter Cleaner (no substitutes), painstakingly wash the element with water (never use parts cleaning solvent on a K&N filter), wait for the element to air dry, re-oil the element just so--not too much, not too little--using K&N Air Filter Oil (no substitutes), wait for the oil to distribute itself throughout the cotton gauze element, and then reinstall it. This is not as big a deal as it may sound, especially if you keep two filters and rotate them into service, but if you aren't going to perform this maintenance work yourself and your technician isn't interested or trustworthy enough to do it, then keep the stock BMW air filter. It works just fine. With a Weber carburetor, this may require an adaptor.
Last, you need to ditch that godforsaken automatic transmission and get yourself a proper manual gearbox before someone thinks you wear dresses in private. I'd convert to a manual gearbox before anything else.
Reinventing the Wheel...Again
I have a 1993 316i and I am thinking about converting it to an M3. I would like to know if the chassis of my car is the same with M3 and if I will have any problems with the stability on road or about fitting the parts (engine, gearbox, etc.). I am ready to buy a 1997 M3 3.2-liter and put all parts on my car, except its chassis of course. (I need the VIN of my chassis; this is the reason for doing this conversion.)
Diger
Greece
I assume you are doing this conversion in order to save money on insurance or taxes. This is about the only way it would make sense over just driving the M3. I hope it is legal.
The chassis is different, but that doesn't mean you can't install the drivetrain, suspension, brakes, aerodynamics and other relevant parts. It will be an enormous job, so I hope you have a good place to work on the car, many tools, good BMW knowledge and above average mechanical skills. This conversion is much more than just the engine--in order for the car to drive correctly, you'll need the entire drivetrain, suspension, and brakes from the M3. I suppose you can take the 316i parts and put them on the M3 then!
E21 Parts Interchange
I was recently given a 1983 320i. In my quest to fix this car, I would like to know if any parts from other 320i models will interchange. Anything from 1977 to 1983 320is or any other models--interior, exterior, engine, etc.
Seraphim Nichols
via the Internet
Well, it depends upon your definition of "interchange." Theoretically, all the parts interchange, but many of them are different. The biggest difference lies in the drivetrain between the first and second generation U.S.-specification 320is.
Generation I lasts up to 09/79 production, and used a 2.0-liter K-Jectronic CIS-fuel injected M10 engine backed by a Getrag 242 four-speed manual gearbox and a 3.64 differential (limited-slip optional).
Generation II starts at 09/79 production and used a 1.8-liter K-Jetronic non-CIS fuel injected M10 engine. From 09/79 up to 09/80, the gearbox was a Getrag 245 five-speed overdrive with a four-bolt output flange. From 09/80 up to 09/82, the same 245 gearbox was used, only with a three-bolt output flange. But from 09/82 production-on, BMW installed the lighter Getrag 240 five-speed overdrive gearbox.
There are four different 49-state exhaust systems: Generation I manual, Generation I automatic, Generation II manual, and Generation II automatic. However, there are only two rear mufflers, Generation I and II. Whack-job California, predictably, has its own funky exhaust E21 parts.
Note that four different driveshafts are used in the U.S.-specification 320i: Up to 09/79 (four-speed gearbox), from 09/79 to 09/80 (Getrag 245 five-speed overdrive manual with four-bolt output flange), from 09/80 to 09/82 (Getrag 245 five-speed overdrive manual with three-bolt output flange), from 09/82 (Getrag 240 five-speed overdrive manual), and last and least, the automatic transmission driveshaft.Due to the overdriven fifth gear, Generation II U.S. 320is use a 3.90 differential, and again limited slip was optional. It was included with the S-package, which was only available in Generation II.
Up to 09/77, Generation I U.S. 320is used excellent large vented front brake rotors and two-piston ATE calipers. From 09/77-on, both Generation I and II units went to non-vented front rotors, and different strut housings, hubs, and calipers. The rear drum brakes are all the same.The fuel delivery systems went though at least three changes, although this is unlikely to affect your work unless you need new fuel tanks. If you do, you should buy them new from BMW and make sure you give the dealership your production date, which is located on a sticker in the driver's door-jamb.
Suspension-wise, the design is all the same regardless of year. But Generation I cars tend not to have a rear anti-roll bar. Shock absorbers were horribly underdone on all U.S. 320is, and they benefit hugely from a set of Bilstein HDs (with stock coil springs), and, if you want, a set of aftermarket anti-roll bars.
There were interior changes made in nearly each year of production, relating to the dashboard, instrument cluster, and center console. However, any configuration can be installed in any 320i. As far as mixing and matching, you're on your own there. It would be a trial and error process, probably with lots of error.
All 320i wheels are the same size: 5.5x13-in. with a unique 18mm offset. You can get into a lot of trouble and waste a lot of money trying to fit larger wheels and tires on an E21 3 Series. It is certainly possible, but if you don't know what you're doing then you're going to need to follow professional direction specific to what you want to do, or the thing is going to be all jacked up. If this is just a "driver," then trust me when I tell you to stick with the stock wheels and 185/70-13 tires. Plus-one sizes are 195/60-14 and 205/50-15, but the trick is all in the offset, which would likely have to come by way of hub-centric spacers--it's not easy. Plus, if anything is off or not exactly "true," you'll experience the dreaded E21 front suspension vibration at 50 to 60 mph. Do not scrimp on tires, either, or it will shake. The tail light assemblies changed from 09/79-on as well. I think that's about it, at least for the big stuff.