Indentifcation, Please?
I have a 1998 323is with 30,000 miles on it. I've had a small leaking of the transmission fluid, which I've fixed and now want to top off the transmission. The caution tag specifies a OEM Dexron III number 83 22 9 407 858 or 859. Since it is Dexron III, can I top off the transmission with an off-the-shelf name brand? And if so, what is the best match for this particular transmission?
C. Yanni
via the Internet
Initially, we cannot tell from your letter whether this car has a manual gearbox or an automatic transmission. If it has a manual gearbox, I would recommend draining the ATF and filling the unit with Red Line D4 ATF (a synthetic Dexron III product, www.redlineoil.com), or Red Line MTL, if you are OK with babying the shifter until the gearbox warms up in cold weather. I recommend changing manual gearbox and differential lubricants every 30,000 miles, the later using Red Line 75W-90 synthetic gear oil.However, you can top up the gearbox using any Dexron III ATF.
If it is an automatic transmission, then it has to be topped off at the dealership. It is filled with BMW's so-called lifetime fill ATF, and there are very specific top-off procedures. The procedures are set forth in the Bentley E36 3 Series Service Manual if you can get your hands on the BMW ATF.
Sudden RPM Jump
I have a 1988 BMW 735i. When I drive at 65 mph and over 70 miles the rpm jump to over 3,500. This is a new condition; before the rpm stayed under 3,000 revolutions at these speeds. We checked my transmission, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and cleaned my distributor. Everything seems OK. What is the reason for this sudden jump in rpm above the normal reading?
Anonymous
via the Internet
This 735i has an automatic transmission, correct? If so it is a ZF 4HP22EH four-speed overdrive transmission. To the left of the shifter on the center console, you will see a switch with an "A" and an "M". "A" is for automatic mode; "M" is for manual mode. In manual mode the transmission will still shift automatically if the shifter is placed in "D", but the shift points are at higher rpm and fourth gear is locked out.
I suspect you have inadvertently moved the switch to "M", locking out fourth gear, so that your highest gear is now third, which is a 1:1 ratio. Check the switch.If the transmission is in fact in automatic mode, then I suspect you are still in third gear at the speeds you noted, except it is the result of an internal transmission malfunction.
Popping Out of First and Second Gear
I own an E36 325i 1995. One day, the gearbox began to pop out of first gear without apparent reason. The problem began to get worse with time. Today, it occurs nearly 70-80% of time. I discovered the problem was exposed in BMW's Service Information Bulletin 23 02 99. I live in Ecuador, and the local BMW dealer did not want to take the repair. We contacted Getrag in Germany, the gearbox manufacturer. The cause of that problem, they say, is a faulty first and second gear guide sleeve. An updated part was available, which we requested. We installed the new parts in the gearbox, but the problem remains.The local BMW dealer insists the only solution is to replace the gearbox at a price near $4,000. I have read a lot on the Internet, and this problem appears to be very frequent on BMW's Getrags (316/18, 325).
Eng. Diego Picon
Quito, Ecuador
There was a problem with the guide sleeve on first and second gear in the Getrag 250, as detailed by the Service Information Bulletin you reference. The factory solution was to replace the gearbox with an original BMW rebuilt unit, and if the problem occured under warranty the replacement would normally be done free of charge. Post warranty, replacement is still the dealer solution; BMW dealerships no longer open drivetrain components for repair--their new policy is to replace instead.Now an updated guide sleeve is available, and that's apparently what you installed.
BMW's replacement advice is not entirely unfounded. We spoke with BMW gearbox expert Jim Blanton of www.performancegearing.com regarding your problem. Blanton has been rebuilding BMW gearboxes for about 30 years, so he knows what he's talking about. He says there are other causes besides the guide sleeve defect for this gearbox to pop out of first and second gear:
"I have seen a change in the synchro mechanism from early to late. The vast majority of the time, popping out of gear has to do with shift fork wear, which I have seen and heard about, especially for the first and second gear fork in this model (Getrag 220/250). Assuming that a new shift fork is not part of this kit, then if the wear surface thickness is not 4.4 to 4.5mm, it should be replaced. Of course, if the fork is worn then the question is `why did it wear?' So replacing the fork might only be a short-term solution. It's never simple."
No crystal ball...
I need help. I did motor swap in our 1986 325 and now it barely runs. Is there a site out there to post this and get ideas to make it run? I have a manual and just started checking around, but I'm getting nowhere.Randy
via the Internet
You haven't given us much information to work with here, Randy. Your 1986 325 had an eta engine. Did you install another eta, an "i" engine, or some other engine? What other parts did you replace? Is your ECU compatible with the engine you installed, or did you swap that, too? Have you verified fuel delivery, spark, and electronics on the replacement engine per the manual? We're pretty good, but we don't have a crystal ball.As for Web sites, try www.roadfly.org.
325iX: See Your Dealership
I have a 1988 325ix and I think it's better in snow than the new XI's. Unfortunately, I need to replace/rebuild my transfer case. The chain slips when I shift hard at 5,000 to 6,000 rpm. Also, I now can spin my rear tires without the fronts engaging. Does that mean the viscous coupling is toast?
What are my options? Is there a company that reengineered it to perform better--faster lock? Is a factory BMW remanufactured unit my only option? Can I get a pump and cooler for it? If I have it rebuilt, is there anything I can change to it to improve it? Can I have the viscous coupling pressurized more to increase lock-up like they do on the remanufactured Mitsubishi Eclipse unit?My rear differential has a viscous coupling also. Is this better than a LS differential or an ATB Quaife differential? My front differential is open, can that be changed to a LS or ATB?
Also, can you tell me where I can get E30 M3 fenders and rear quarters? I did some searches and came up with nothing. I remember years ago a company in New Rochelle, NY made fiberglass ones. I think they were featured in your magazine. Not sure what year or month, I'm talking about 7-10 years ago.
Is there a company that makes equal-length shorty headers for my car? I know the full headers from SuperSprint and Stahl wont fit. I found MSDS shorty headers but they are not equal length. The shorty headers from Ireland Engineering say it's close to 1:1 but the primaries are not mandrel bent tubes. Some of the primaries are tubes welded together and have some sections of the pieces welded protruding into the ID of the tube (reducing ID and flow characteristics) and the ports in the flange are out of round (1/4-in. off) so it would most likely leak, I think. How important is it for the primaries to be equal lengths? Is a custom set the only way to go? Will a set of shorty headers for a M50 engine work on a M20 engine if you change the flange? They look like they line up.
George Garcia
via the Internet
George, I hate to torpedo your battleship, but you're not going to be able to do anything you want to do-- at least not without spending many thousands of dollars to pay a professional race engineering team to perform the necessary research, development, and prototype testing. So, unless you're building Team 325iX with financial backing from Halliburton, it's time now for you to develop a relationship with your local BMW dealership.
There is no need, nor is there any precedent for, modifying 325iX drivetrain components. The car was built as an alpine region snow car, not a track car. As you have discovered, it works quite well in snow--that's its forte. I don't know any technician in the United States who rebuilds 325iX drivetrain components, but you might want to check with www.koalamotorsport.com. My feeling is you're going to wind up buying a factory BMW remanufactured transfer case. Maintenance-wise, transfer cases usually fail for lack of oil changes. They also tend to leak. I recommend Red Line D4 ATF in the transfer case, Red Line 75W-90 synthetic gear oil in the differentials and the transfer case, and Red Line MTL in the manual gearbox. Change it every 30,000 miles.
Forget about M3 fenders and quarter panels. Keep the ones you have. Same with headers, unless you can pay a race shop to create a custom set for you. That would require a great deal of dyno testing to get it right, or close to right. You could have the stock exhaust manifolds honed, though.The 325iX is a great car right out of the box, but you have to recognize the purpose for which it was built and work within that mission or you will be out a great deal of money. For engine power increases, anything you do past a computer chip is going to require a rebuild using high compression pistons, a sport camshaft, cylinder head porting, and exhuast manifold honing.
Mystery Chassis
I just bought a 1991 BMW 318i and need to repair the power steering rack and pinion unit, but I don't know which body style the car is. The parts list I'm looking at lists both the E36 and E30 models for the 1991 model year. How do I tell the difference?
Aaron Partlow
via the Internet
You didn't tell us your location or the country specification of this Bimmer, but if it is a U.S.-specification car then it is an E30 3 Series. The E30 3 Series was imported to the United States from the 1984 to 1992 model years, convertibles only in 1992. The E36 3 Series coupes and sedans began to show up in the United States for the 1992 model year.
325i Sport
My dad recently purchased a 2003 BMW 325i with no options but the sport package and sunroof. I was wondering if there are any bolt-ons worth buying that will give the 184 hp engine a nice little boost.
Andy
via the Internet
Sounds like your dad and I think alike, although I probably would have nixed the sport package (it's only seats, wheels, and tires, which I'd be replacing anyway) and the sunroof in favor of xenon headlights.Forced induction is the only way to get major power gains out of this engine. Your one-stop shop for the 2.5-liter mill is www.activeautowerke.com.
Why Swap?
I am an Aussie and I have a 1985 323i, which is very stock standard. I have very little knowledge of the engine. I want to work it a little bit, and it was suggested that I put a 325e engine in it. Would this have many advantages? What degree of difficulty and cost is involved?
Nathan Bush
via the Internet
Sure, you can install a 325e engine. Why would you want to? I am not sure of the power specifications for the Australian E30 323i, but I think it's safe to say the 325e engine will have less horsepower. Its low-revving nature (redline of about 5,000 rpm) will be incompatible with your differential ratio, which I would think is a 3.73 or 3.91. You'd be better off working with the engine you have, or if the car needs a new engine, a 325i engine. If you do go with a 325i engine, you will need the engine wiring harness and electronic control unit.
M20 Turbocharging: Mossleman's the Name, Blowers are the Game
I'm the proud owner of a 1987 325is. I'd like to turbocharge it, but I am kind of at a loss for what to do. I'm not sure anyone makes a turbo kit for the M20 engine. This is going to be a long time project car, so any suggestions would be appreciated, like should I do the M50 engine conversion like BMP Design, etc. I was also wondering if I could change my four-lug hubs to five-lug.
Paco Rockenmacher
via the Internet
Your turbo kit is available from Mossleman. Visit www.bmw2002.com. Whether to turbocharge the M20 or install a later twin cam engine, for me, depends on the condition of the M20. If it's in good shape, then why not work with what you already have? If it needs a rebuild, well, then the question becomes can you find a twin cam motor (M50/M52, S50/S52), and how much will it cost? If you go this way, visit www.zionsvilleautosport.com for their instruction CD on the conversion. In the end, either route is going to cost a great deal of money--probably about the same amount.
Sure, you can convert to five lugs. All you need to do is convert the car to E30 M3 front strut housings and rear trailing arms. You'll also need to do an E30 M3 full brake conversion including the master cylinder, and install an E30 M3 front sway bar (actually, you wouldn't have to do the bar, but it would be cool). Sounds simple; costs a lot. The thing is, there's really not much benefit in a five-lug conversion. There are E30s out there with 300 hp running four-lug hubs.
Let BMW Build It!
I have a 1993 325is. I will soon do a manual conversion because I'm tired of the four-speed automatic. Before I do that I want to know if I should do an engine swap for an M3. This swap will probably run me $3,000 to $4,000 for the engine alone. What is the big difference between the two engines? I know the 50 hp is what separates them. But could I do some internal engine mods or use an M3 engine management computer to reach that extra 50 hp, without having to install an aftermarket intake and such?
Thy
South Bend, IN
Let's say your Bimmer is can be sold as-is for $5,000. You want to take this $5,000 automatic transmission Bimmer and convert it to a manual gearbox, which is certainly a noble undertaking. For the sake of argument, say those parts are going to cost you $2,000. Now, you're also thinking about an M3 engine. We'll split the difference at $3,500. You now have $10,500-worth of Bimmer sitting in your garage, and you have not yet upgraded the suspension or the brakes to handle the added power. Let's say you get away cheap and spend $2,000 on these upgrades. You're now up to $12,500 and you still don't have a nice front air dam, the 17-inch wheels and tires, or the sport seats. OK, now let's say the dismantler's phone number is on your speed dialer. He feels sorry for you, so he cuts you a deal on these parts-- only $3,000, for a total investment of $15,500 to build your own M3. And all this assumes you will incur $0 labor charges doing all the work yourself.
Guess what, Thy--you can just sell the 325is and buy a competently maintained M3! Why build it yourself when BMW has already built zillions of them? The U.S. version S50 engine in the 1995 M3 is a special version only used in this market. It was down 42 hp from the European version, used the VANOS system from the M50 engine, and used only one throttle body as opposed to six. Our version also had a less sophisticated cylinder head. The 3.0-liter U.S. S50 is essentially a "stroker" version of the 2.5-liter M50, with hot cams and a forged crankshaft.