Tools Needed:
Jack stands
Heavy Duty Impact Gun (1/2" is adequate)
Adjustable Wrench
3/8" Ratchet
Phillips Screwdriver
Rubber Mallet
Impact Driver (not always necessary)
32mm Socket
18mm Socket or Wrench
10mm socket
10mm Hex Head Bit
15mm Deep Socket or 15mm Ratcheting Wrench
17mm Open End Wrench
19mm Open End Wrench or Socket
13mm Socket
T40 Torx Bit
T20 Torx Bit
Modified 3/4"Ball Joint Separator Tool (use a die grinder to modify item #99849 from


First remove the wheel center caps. Then with the wheel still on the car, and the car down on the ground, use a 1/2" impact gun to loosen the 32mm axles nut bolts.

Now with the car safely lifted on jack stands (and not a jack), take the wheels off and the front axles nuts.

To remove the brakes start by removing the two socket screws using a 10mm hex head bit and a ratchet. Then slip the caliper off.

You can leave the brake line attached and simply place the caliper on a box the appropriate size or by hanging it on a wire or coat hanger.

If your rotor has two alignment screws use an impact driver.

If you don't have an impact driver, try slowly turning a large screwdriver while tapping the end with a hammer. If your rotor doesn't come off easily, use a rubber mallet to pop it loose.

Now remove the two small harness plugs on the upright with a 10mm socket.

With the hood open and the two plastic covers popped off. You'll need the T20 torx bit and ratchet.

With the covers off, remove the three 13mm nuts holding the top of the strut to the car.

Next remove the 18mm bolt nut combo that holds the knuckle upright to the strut housing.

Now detach the sway bar from the end link using a 15mm socket and 17mm open-end wrench.

Here's probably the most difficult part of the disassembly. You will need to pop loose two ball-joints from the knuckle upright.

To do this, and avoid ruining the ball joint, you will need the proper ball-joint separator tool. We couldn't find the correct tool anywhere so purchased the 3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator (item #99849 from

After getting the tool we still had to modify it by grinding the opening to accommodate the large ball-joint.

Loosen the nut on top of the ball-joint without removing it. Loosen it about 5mm or so, just enough to pop loose the ball-joint.

Leaving the nut on the thread will ensure you don't ruin the ball-joint threads. The ball-joint separator will push the nut down, which will put pressure on the ball-joint until it pops loose. The more the nut is grabbing onto the threads, the better it works.

Underneath the center of the knuckle upright you'll see the other ball-joint.

Our modified ball-joint separator on the ball-joint ready to pop it loose.

21.jpg Strut and knuckle pulled out.

Factory front strut and knuckle upright.

KW Clubsport coilover and factory OEM strut.

To correct suspension geometry on a lowered car, KW Clubsport coilovers come with shorter sway bar end-links. Check out how much shorter they are than the OEM pieces.

We chose the KW Clubsport coilovers because they come with top mounts making them easier to install. Most other coilovers re-use the OEM top mount, requiring you to compress the OEM spring and disassemble the OEM strut. However, all we had to do was simply slide the OEM strut assembly out of the upright and slide in the new KW Clubsport coilover.

KW Clubsport coilovers come with adjustment knobs on both top and bottom. The two-way adjustments are for compression and rebound.

KW Clubsport coilover mated to the factory Porsche knuckle upright.

When assembling the suspension back into the car, it might help to use a jack to compress the suspension.

Front KW Clubsport coilover installed on our 996 Porsche 911 Turbo. Make sure to install the correct KW Clubsport on the correct side. Not doing so will place the external reservoir in the wrong area, causing wheel interference. The rest of the installation is pretty much the reverse order of the removal.


Start by removing the interior carpet between the two shock towers.

Now remove the three 15mm nuts on each shock tower with a ratcheting wrench or deep socket.

Now get the rear of the car lifted high on jack stands. Don't forget to chock the front wheels to prevent the car rolling off and crushing you.

Slide underneath and look for the rear sway bar and end-links.

Like the front, leave the end-links attached to the strut for now. You will need a 17mm open-end wrench and a 19mm socket or wrench for the nut, to remove it from the sway bar.

Using an 18mm socket and ratchet, remove the bottom strut bolt while holding the nut in place with an adjustable wrench.

Be careful not to let the strut fall on you when you remove the bottom strut bolt. Once the strut is loose, maneuver it from the car.

Now remove the end-links from the strut housing.

Rear KW Clubsport coilovers for 996 Porsche 911 Turbo.

Rear factory 996 Porsche 911 Turbo and KW Clubsport coilover comparison.

On the rear of the KW Clubsport coilovers you will see a small black dust cap. Remove this to access to the bottom adjustment knob.

Just like the front, the rears of the KW Clubsports coilovers come with top mounts and adjustment knobs.

From here the installation of the new coilovers and end-links is the reverse order of the removal. This is not the ride height of the coilovers, just an example of how low you can actually go. We did raise the car up somewhat before driving.


As a tip, we recommend leaving the pre-load on the springs as KW sends them out. If you want to go higher or lower, try not to venture too far from their setting.

As for rebound and compression adjustment, these come with X-way settings. On coilovers, we typically set everything in the middle and drive it for a day or so. From there you can decide if you want to stiffen or soften the settings. Give it another drive and go further as desired.

To take advantage of the KW Clubsport coilovers you will need to have the suspension dialed-in with an alignment and corner weighing by a professional. Your Porsche will then handle like never before.

By Staff
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