Upgrading my 1995 Jetta GLX's front brakes from 11-in. front rotors to 11.3-in. rotors required replacing the rotors, calipers and pad carriers, pads and flexible brake line (the new caliper uses a different fitting).
Get out your Bentley manual (800/423-4595) and open to the section on brakes. Things may not be exactly as illustrated because of the change in calipers, but the procedures are similar.
Working on a hard, level surface (a concrete floor), raise the front of the car. Use jackstands; never work on a car supported only by the jack. The installation is pretty straightforward and goes as follows:
Remove the front wheels. It should appear as above. | 
If your car is equipped with pad wear indicators, snap the connector out of the bracket and disconnect. | 
If your rotors are well worn, there may be a ridge around the out side edge. Carefully use a small pry bar to retract the piston slightly. |
Cut a length of stiff wire (coat hangers work well) and bend a "J" shape in each end. Next, remove the two bolts holding the pad carrier and caliper to the wheel bearing housing. | 
Save the bolts you removed. You'll need them again. | 
Since we're replacing the entire assembly with new parts, slide the caliper assembly off and hang it out of the way using the wire you just shaped. Remove the set-screw holding the rotor to the hub. If the screw is well rusted, you may need to use an impact screwdriver. I did not. Remove the old rotor. Do not use force. You may need to squirt a little penetrating oil around the hub/rotor joint. |
This is what the hub and wheel-bearing carrier look like. The ABS sensor and ABS rotor are visible. Cleanliness is essential in brake work. Before installing the new rotor, wash your hands and clean the rotor with brake cleaner. Install the set-screw. |  | 
Connect the new brake line to the new caliper using the banjo bolt and copper washers. Torque the banjo bolt to 22 lb-ft. |
The new caliper in my kit came with stock pads already installed. The inside pad has spring clips that snap into the piston, and the outer has an adhesive that holds it to the pad carrier. Install the pads you're going to be using at this point. | 
Slide the new caliper over the new rotor and install the two bolts you removed earlier. Torque the bolts to 92 lb-ft. In this photos is a close-up of the new rotor, set-screw, outer pad, retaining spring and caliper/pad carrier. | 
The swept area increases 36 percent using the 11.3-in. rotors. |
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This photo shows the flexible/rigid brake line connection. Try to work fairly quickly here in order not to let enough brake fluid drain out to drain the reservoir. Using the proper flare-end wrench (it is very easy to round off the connector), disconnect the old flexible line and set the old caliper assembly aside. Expect a little mess as brake fluid drains from the rigid line--and remember that brake fluid is an excellent paint remover! Have a rag ready. Slide the new line*s end into the bracket and connect the rigid line. The small C-clip acts as a spring to hold everything in place. | 
This photo shows the completed connection. I carefully sliced the rubber grommet that held the flexible brake line in the bracket on the strut and slid it over the new line. Turn the slice to the inside. So far this has worked just fine. |
This photo shows the new Mintex/C-Tech 1144 pads in place. | 
Note in this photo, Ferodo manufactures the stock pads. | |
Finally, repeat on the other side. Carefully bleed the brakes. As long as you do not drain the reservoir, conventional bleeding methods are acceptable for ABS-equipped cars. According to the Bentley manual, a special dealer tool is required to remove any air trapped in the ABS unit; hence my cautions not to let the fluid completely drain from the reservoir. The proper sequence is RR, LR, RF and LF. Allow the brake fluid to flow until it runs clear before moving to the next caliper. Don't forget to check and top off the brake-fluid reservoir between steps. You are now ready to continue on to the rear.
In the rear, I decided to install matching rear rotors and new pads. You'll need a couple of special tools to do the job. You also need to install wheel bearings and their races in the new rotors. I chose to install new bearings, but you could reuse the old ones.
Either way the races must be set (and removed if reusing) with a tool made of a softer material than the steel races. A brass drift pin can be used to drive the races out of the old hub and to set them in the new hub. A better alternative for setting the races is to use an aluminum tool designed specifically for the job. Be sure and check the guide bolts.
Check the rear pads for uneven wear as an indication the bolts have frozen. It's a bit more complicated to do the rears, and you may want to get a quote from your mechanic before starting this one.
There are a few things you can do before you start tearing things apart. The bearings will need to be packed with fresh grease. If you reuse your bearings, make sure no cleaner residue remains. You can use the venerable gob of grease in a plastic bag method or use a bearing packer. Either way, be sure the bearing is full of grease.
If your car is ABS equipped, you need to install the ABS rotor before installing the new brake rotor. You can drive it off the old rotor/hub. if you're careful and reinstall it, but I opted for new ones. A light coating of grease, and they slide right on. Once you have accomplished these preliminary steps, you can continue.
Start by finding the appropriate section in the Bentley Manual. Then raise the car and support it on jackstands. Always work on a hard surface and use jackstands.
Remove the front wheels. It should appear as above. | 
The parking brake mechanism is incorporated in the rear caliper, and the piston must be retracted using a special tool. Simply forcing the piston in will destroy the parking brake mechanism. | 
Smaller, one-time-use bolts attach the caliper to the guide bolts. The guide bolts in turn slide into the pad carrier and hold the whole assembly together. In addition, the guide bolts allow the caliper to "float" and adjust for pad wear. If the protective caps have failed or have been dislodged, the guide bolts can rust solid. |
There are a few things you can do before you start tearing things apart. The bearings will need to be packed with fresh grease. If you reuse your bearings, make sure no cleaner residue remains. You can use the venerable gob of grease in a plastic bag method or use a bearing packer. Either way, be sure the bearing is full of grease. | 
This photo shows an outer race in the rotor (which also functions as the rear hub). Using a tool made of softer material than the steel race, drive it into the hub until it is firmly seated. | 
If your car is ABS equipped, you need to install the ABS rotor before installing the new brake rotor. You can drive it off the old rotor/hub, if you're careful and reinstall it, but I opted for new ones. A light coating of grease, and they slide right on. |
Once you have accomplished these preliminary steps, you can continue. Start by finding the appropriate section in the Bentley Manual. Then raise the car and support it on jackstands. Always work on a hard surface and use jackstands.
These two photos show the outside and the inside of the rear assemblies. |  | 
And here's an exploded view of the rear brake assembly from the Bentley Manual. |
Disconnect the parking brake cable. I used a large pair of water-pump pliers to compress the mechanism and then slid the ball end off. Remove the retaining clip and slide the cable out of the caliper. | 
Also remove the lower bolt (13mm) from the guide bolt (15mm; you'll need to hold it), to allow the caliper to swing up and the pads to be removed. | 
These bolts are one-time use only and need to be replaced each time they're removed. |
Use a small screwdriver or scribe and try to clean out any dirt or corrosion from the 8mm bolts holding the pad carrier to the stub axle. Make sure the tool seats in the bolt's head--it's possible to cause yourself problems by stripping the head. | 
Remove the two bolts holding the pad carrier and hang the caliper out of the way. If you're replacing the rear lines, you can remove the caliper. Work quickly; do not let the reservoir drain completely. | 
Remove the grease cap. Remove the cotter pin, lock ring, hex nut and thrust washer. Gently slide the old rotor off the stub axle. |
After wiping the stub axle clean it will look like this. You can see the ABS sensor above the axle. | | |
Next, load the interior of the new rotor/hub with grease, set the inside bearing in place and insert the seal. Slide the new rotor over the stub axle. Slide on the outer bearing and thrust washer and screw in the hex nut. Tighten the nut to 87 lb-in. Loosen the nut slightly. While rotating the disc, slowly tighten the nut until the thrust washer can just barely be moved with a light push from a screwdriver.
Install the lock ring and new cotter pin. (photo #46) Load the grease cap with 10 grams of grease and tap back into place. |
The piston must be retracted and the caliper's automatic adjustment mechanism reset by turning it clockwise while pushing in. Use the proper tool. These photos show a Blue Point YA 8525 (and also show the guide pin). Note the pins and matching indents in the piston. | |
This photo shows VW tool 3272 and is from the Bentley Manual. This operation requires a certain amount of force, and using the proper tool is the only way to go. | 
Reattach the caliper to the stub axle and torque the bolts to 41 lb-ft. Raise the free end of the caliper and install the new pads. There's a spring that must be slightly compressed in order to install a new bolt (13mm) through the caliper and into the guide pin (15mm). Torque the new bolt to 89 lb-in. Reinstall the parking brake cable. Consult the Bentley Manual for instructions on adjusting the parking brake. Bleed the system. |  |
The Motive Products Power Bleeder worked well for me. | | |
Bed in the new brakes. Everyone's advice was the "same thing only different." The recommendations boiled down to 10-30 medium-pressure, smooth stops from 55 mph or so. Come completely off the brakes, drive for a minute (or a mile) and do it again. And again. Then drive several miles to completely cool everything. The idea is to gradually build up temperatures without any "thermal shock" to the components. If you do have to come to a complete stop, do so a little early, take your foot off the brake and let the wheels rotate slightly to avoid holding a hot pad in one place for too long. Try to avoid using the ABS for the first 200 miles. Enjoy your much improved brakes.