When the second nut is removed, the shock and spring can be lowered from the car. This is what you will see. Be careful: in addition to the rubber mount and steel cup still above the body, there is a larger rubber mount and identical steel cup that will stick to the underside of the body, but only long enough for you to turn your back and miss seeing what it is and where it goes when it falls. This is where I was really, really glad to have the Bentley manual. In addition to torque specs for everything, it had an exploded diagram of the rear shock assembly. Without it, I might still be scratching my head. There is a large number of parts involved in such a seemingly simple mount, and it's not obvious how they fit until after you figure it out. Transferring the bump stop, upper spring seat, and everything else required from the stock shock to the Cup Kit unit is easy, but it takes some attention. Use the diagram in the Bentley manual to make sure you have all the parts, and in the correct order. The thin metal sleeve that goes between the spring and the lower seat is easy to miss when it's dirty. (Despite having done this before, I made mistakes the first time and the second, but perhaps that was because I should have taken more breaks and not been in a hurry to get the job done so the car's owner could get to a Dodgers game. Thinking about it, there could be a lesson in that.) Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. That line is infamous, but it actually applies here. Putting the shock back in the car is a pain, but no worse than taking it out. Just be sure that everything is making sense, and don't tighten anything until it does. This would be a good time to survey what parts are left over. Not many are supposed to be on the ground at this point. H&R supplies a new self-locking nut that only makes sense to be used as the very final nut, but the factory nuts are jam nuts, not self-locking, so I retained the factory arrangement. I thought perhaps the H&R nuts were actually for the lower bolt, but it has a different thread pitch than the shock shaft. I found it easier to do both sides before reinstalling either lower shock bolt to the beam. Once that is done, the job is complete. Put the wheels back on, torque the lug nuts, and put the car on the ground. Go for a test drive. Listen for clunks, rattles, any indication that something is loose. Check for rubbing. Go over some bumps. If you're pretty happy with it on surface streets, take an on-ramp and see if anything rubs. While doing this, remember that your alignment is all messed up, so steering and general handling will probably not meet spec until that is done. Be careful, and be safe!