After sampling each of the assembled cars, we came to this conclusion. Balance is the essence of driving a 912. Despite what the stopwatch says, acceleration feels brisk. The 912 reacts quicker to steering input and directional changes than a 356. It is lighter and more nimble than a 911. With a better balanced (45/55) front-to-rear weight bias, the 912 can be pitched into a turn without having to counteract for the extra 150 or so pounds perched behind the rear wheels of a 911. Forget fears of trailing throttle oversteer.
They're great fun to drive under most conditions, which is something to reflect on to pass the time while struggling up hills or waiting for a long break in oncoming traffic to pass someone.
The heavier 912E does not feel as lithe as the earlier cars. It is more luxurious inside, and the extra insulation mutes the 2.0-liter's thrumming so it sounds more like a Porsche than a VW. The more modern 912E would be the better choice for a daily driver, but the early cars are definitely more fun to play with. And although it is only a matter of a couple of inches, the short-wheelbase cars (pre-'69) have a lean and mean look that makes them stand out even in a pack of 911s.
Buying A 912We begin our advice by using the four-letter word that always comes up when poking around any old car. No, not that word. Rust is the key word when examining the early 912s. It is not so much a problem with the 912E, because 1976 was the first year Porsche used galvanized steel in producing 911 bodies.
Prop up the front hood (if the struts hold it open on their own, congratulations you may have discovered a potential winner) and inspect the trunk. Check the seams up front and the area around the fuel tank. Also check for corrosion around the battery. Rust that starts inside the trunk will eventually rot out the front portion of the pan where the torsion bars and other suspension parts are anchored.
Although it can cost around $1,000 to fix, repairing this area on 911s and 912s has become a common practice over the years. Replacement sections are available. They can be had for around $675 plus labor for welding them in place.While not beyond the realm of the do-it-yourselfer, it is important the piece is properly installed if you expect your front-end alignment to come anywhere near factory specs.
Rust can also be present anywhere else that water can seep in and accumulate over the years, such as around the lower parts of any windows, doorjambs and side sills. Check to see that the jack-post supports are intact. Again, these are all repairable; it just becomes a matter of how much you want to invest in a rust bucket when cleaner cars can be had. Cars that have had rust invade the area ahead of the rear wheels where the rear control arms are mounted are best avoided altogether.
As with any used Porsche, buying a 912 requires you do your homework and have an expert mechanic check out any car before you fork over the cash. Cars with a history of long-term ownership and regular maintenance records are more desirable than short-term owners with the usual litany of excuses that usually begin, "I bought the car to restore it but...."